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Iran says protester Erfan Soltani not sentenced to death as it reopens its airspace – live

Iran will defend itself “against any foreign threat,” the country’s foreign minister told his Saudi counterpart on Thursday, as Washington refuses to rule out military strikes over the Iranian crackdown on protesters. Iranian foreign minister Abbas Araghchi told Saudi’s Faisal bin Farhan in telephone talks of the importance of “global condemnation of foreign interference in the internal affairs of regional countries”, according to a statement on his Telegram channel reported by Agence France-Presse (AFP). The Saudi Press Agency confirmed the talks, saying “they discussed developments in the region and how to enhance its security and stability”.

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France becomes latest Nato member to confirm Greenland troop deployment – Europe live

Danish prime minister Mette Frederiksen has responded to last night’s “not easy” meeting with US representatives in Washington, warning that “there is a fundamental disagreement” over “the American ambition to take over Greenland.” In a post on Facebook, Frederiksen stressed the Danish government would “continue our efforts to prevent this scenario from becoming a reality.” She noted that there is a growing consensus within Nato about strenghtening military presence in the Arctic as part of the broader European and transatlantic security. She said that Denmark has invested “significantly” in new Arctic capabilities, and a number of allies were expected to contribute to joint exercises. The defence and protection of Greenland is a common concern for the entire Nato alliance. Frederiksen added that the government would brief the leaders of the other political parties on the talks on Friday.

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Trump says Iran has told him ‘killing has stopped’ as he pulls back from strike threats

Donald Trump has at least temporarily pulled back from threats to strike Iran, saying he has been assured the killing of protesters has been halted and no executions are being planned. Speaking to reporters in the White House on Wednesday night, the US president said: “We’ve been told that the killing in Iran is stopping – it’s stopped – it’s stopping. And there’s no plan for executions, or an execution, or execution – so I’ve been told that on good authority.” He offered no details and said the US had yet to verify the claims. Trump had repeatedly talked in recent days about coming to the help of the Iranian people, saying the US was “locked and loaded” if Iran started to shoot at the protesters. But despite reports that as many as 3,428 Iranians had been killed and that executions as punishment were imminent, Trump made no announcement on military action. It is understood he had reviewed the full range of options to strike Iran but was unconvinced any single action would lead to a decisive change. Trump has pulled off misleading feints with Iran in the past, suggesting in June his officials were fully engaged in negotiations with their Iranian counterparts over its nuclear programme when in reality he was preparing the strikes for the 12-day war last summer. He said he had received assurances from “very important sources on the other side” that Tehran had stopped the use of lethal force on protesters and that executions would not go ahead. “There were supposed to be a lot of executions today,” Trump said, adding that “the executions won’t take place – and we’re going to find out”. He gave no estimate of the number killed, a figure he had said on Tuesday he was about to be be given by his officials. Estimates vary between under 2,000 to more than 12,000. Trump had been strenuously lobbied by leaders in the Middle East not to go ahead with strikes that would be certain to lead to Iranian counterstrikes on US bases. Israeli and Arab officials had told the US administration in recent days that the Iranian regime was not yet weak enough for American strikes to topple it, NBC reported on Tuesday. From Wednesday afternoon and through the night, Israel braced for a possible Trump move against Iran. Israeli officials remained largely silent, conscious that any visible role could allow Tehran to portray the protest movement as foreign-backed. Benjamin Netanyahu is aware that Israeli intervention would risk discrediting protesters and give Iran’s leadership justification to escalate militarily against Israel. On Wednesday evening, according to reports citing Haaretz and the Washington Post, Israeli officials conveyed to Iran, via Russia, that Israel would not strike first if Iran did not, with Iran reportedly reciprocating this understanding. Protest unrest, however, casts uncertainty on the status of this informal understanding. According to the New York Times, after Trump’s remarks on Wednesday afternoon, the Pentagon was preparing to stand down forces and allow troops to return to base, with a senior US military official describing the president’s comments as “an off-ramp”. Long-range bombers in the US had been placed on alert for potential secondary strikes, the paper reported, but that posture was quietly paused by late afternoon. In recent weeks, Trump’s rhetoric and actions have swung sharply between threats of military strikes and sudden pauses, leaving analysts to debate whether this apparent unpredictability is strategic, chaotic or a blend of both. Some strategists argue that such signals are meant to deter further Iranian repression and potentially force Tehran toward concessions without an actual strike. Earlier, the Iranian foreign minister, Abbas Araghchi, told Fox News “there is no plan” by Iran to execute people in retaliation for the anti-government protests. “Hanging is out of the question,” he said. In a video posted on Wednesday by Tasnim, a news agency close to the Revolutionary Guards, the judiciary chief, Gholam-Hossein Mohseni-Eje’i, said: “If we want to do something, we have to do it quickly, do it at the right time.” Erfan Soltani, the first Iranian protester sentenced to death since the unrest began, was widely expected to be executed on Wednesday, but his family have since been told it has been postponed. On Thursday, the Iranian judiciary said Soltani had “not been sentenced to death” and if he was convicted, “the punishment, according to the law, will be imprisonment, as the death penalty does not exist for such charges”. The government’s internet blackout has entered its eighth day although calls can be made inside the country. Before Trump’s statement, Iran closed its airspace to almost all flights early on Thursday, and airlines, including Lufthansa, said their flights would avoid Iranian and Iraqi airspace until further notice. Some personnel at a key US military base in Qatar were advised to evacuate, and the US embassy in Kuwait ordered its personnel to temporarily stop going to the numerous military bases in the small Gulf Arab country. The US embassy in Saudi Arabia also urged staff to exercise caution and avoid military installations. The UK said it was evacuating staff from Tehran. A senior Iranian official said Tehran had told regional countries hosting US bases, such as Saudi Arabia and Turkey, that it would attack those targets in the event of a US strike. In June, Iran struck al-Udeid base after the US hit nuclear enrichment facilities in Iran, though the strike was telegraphed and largely symbolic. In his Fox News interview, Araghchi toned down the rhetoric, urging the US to find a solution through negotiation. Asked what he would say to Trump, Araghchi said: “My message is: between war and diplomacy, diplomacy is a better way, although we don’t have any positive experience from the United States. But still diplomacy is much better than war.” There is no sign of a backroom breakthrough in the issues that divide Washington and Tehran over its insistence on enriching uranium domestically and its stockpile of the product. Iran executed more than 1,500 prisoners last year and Amnesty International urged the international community to act decisively to bring its systematic human rights abuses to an end. The latest comments from Trump prompted a 3% drop in oil prices as concerns over possible disruption to global supplies lessened. Gold and silver also dipped on the news. Crude prices had surged in recent days as Trump talked about coming to the aid of Iranian protesters. In a Reuters interview on Wednesday night, Trump expressed uncertainty over whether the exiled opposition figure Reza Pahlavi would be able to muster enough support within Iran to challenge the regime. “He seems very nice, but I don’t know how he’d play within his own country,” Trump said. “And we really aren’t up to that point yet. I don’t know whether or not his country would accept his leadership, and certainly if they would, that would be fine with me.” Early on Thursday, the UN security council scheduled an emergency meeting to discuss the protests at the request of the US. Foreign ministers from the G7 group said they were “prepared to impose additional restrictive measures” on Iran over its handling of the protests, and the “deliberate use of violence, the killing of protesters, arbitrary detention and intimidation tactics”. Additional reporting by Lorenzo Tondo

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How ‘day zero’ water shortages in Iran are fuelling protests

Gripped by a terrible drought now entering its sixth year, Iran’s cities are on the brink of what its meteorological organisation calls “water day zero”: the boundary beyond which supply systems no longer function. This was crossed by Chennai in India in summer 2019 and is now threatening Mashhad, Tabriz and Tehran, where taps in the city’s southern districts had already run dry by early December. Nightly “pressure cuts”, in which the water supply is halted to whole districts in the capital, have already become the norm. Protesters demanding “Water, electricity, life – our basic right” over the summer were already risking a clampdown. Middle East expert Juan Cole says in an article that the head of the regional water company was claiming, in early November, that the five main water supply dams to Tehran, the capital, were only 11% full, and criticising the government for its inaction. Tehran, home to 10 million people, has been threatened with the most drastic measure of all – evacuation. “If it does not rain in Tehran by December, we should ration water; if it still does not rain, we must empty Tehran,” warned the country’s president, Masoud Pezeshkian, back in November. When the biggest demonstrations in Iran in years erupted a few weeks later, to be met with a brutal government crackdown, the fundamental insecurity induced by a lack of water was a crucial – but underreported – background to the upheavals that may yet topple the 47-year-old Islamic Republic itself. The immediate triggers for the protests were a combination of worsening government austerity and a dramatic currency crisis, the falling value of the rial ratcheting domestic inflation up even beyond the 40% it had reached earlier in the year. But this shock has to be understood as the final break after decades of cumulative failure. For Iran, the evidence strongly suggests that climate change is the deep cause of its water shortages: average temperatures in Iran’s cities between 1990 and 2022 have risen about twice as fast as the global rate, according to research from Iran referenced by Cole. But the impact of those rising temperatures has been amplified by the mismanagement of Iran’s water supplies, in a decades-long failure under successive governments that long predates the 1979 revolution. Spurred on by visions of national modernisation and self-reliance, both the Shah of Iran and the Islamic Republic have overseen the “abandonment” of Iran’s ancient qanat aquifer system. Consisting of about 70,000 tunnels dug into hillsides across the country to access underground water, most of Iran’s 250,000 miles of qanat tunnels are about 2,500 years old – supplying its cities and agriculture with freshwater for millennia. Iran instead became one of the top three dam builders in the world over the last half of the 20th century. From 1962, under the shah, 58 dams were constructed across the country, holding around a quarter of the country’s total water resource, with the aim, primarily, of boosting the country’s agricultural output. But by putting major dams on rivers too small to sustain them, Iran’s authorities brought short-term relief at the cost of longer-term water loss: evaporation from reservoirs increased while upland areas were deprived of water, now trapped behind the dams. After the revolution, and the overthrow of the shah, the attempted shift to economic self-sufficiency saw efforts to maximise domestic water extraction, primarily via the increased use of groundwater pumps, with no serious attention paid to sustainability. There is a critical international dimension to the shortages. Long-delayed by the country’s insurgency, Afghanistan’s Taliban regime finally oversaw the completion of the Pashdan Dan on the Harirud River, where construction had originally begun in 2011. The Harirud flows from Afghanistan over the border into eastern Iran, but the operation of the dam places the Taliban in control of 80% of the flow down the river, potentially deciding the water supplies to major cities including Mashhad, the country’s second largest. Armed clashes between Iran and Afghanistan broke out over access to the Helmand River in the summer 2023, with casualties on both sides before a negotiated truce. Unlike Helmand, notionally governed by a 1973 treaty, Harirud has no formal agreement over water use in place, and rhetoric over access to it has ratcheted up over the last 12 months and more as the dam approached completion. Meanwhile, Iran’s groundwater supplies have been squeezed almost dry over the last 40 years. Over 1m groundwater pumps have been installed, 90% for use by Iran’s agricultural sector, particularly when surface conditions have been arid. The ancient qanat system has been pumped dry, with most of the country’s tunnels now falling into disrepair – causing severe subsidence in Isfahan, a city once reliant for its water on the tunnel system. The result is a disastrous depletion of Iran’s slow-replenishing underground water supplies, with the majority pumped dry over the first two decades of this century. Faced with soaring inflation, crippling sanctions, and the hefty costs of administering a complex system of “preferential exchange rate” subsidies for imported essentials, rising to $18bn over the last year, Iran’s rulers have attempted some familiar versions of “reform”, including dramatic spending cuts. It was pressure on government finances that pushed the government to try to end the preferential exchange rate system in early December, along with concern the system had become thoroughly corrupt, with relatively few well-connected importers enjoying massive benefits that were not seen by most consumers. The intention was to replace this subsidy for importers by boosting the existing system of direct payments, which is almost a form of basic income, starting from March next year. But ending the preferential rates system threatened to raise the domestic prices of essentials, including food imports, further increasing inflation which was already running at over 40%, and 72% for food. Inflation is one version of the chronic scarcity that is making daily life in Iran unbearable. Water shortages, where basic systems don’t work and access to water becomes a privilege for those who can afford bottled supplies, is another. In a world without climate change, Iran’s decades of water mismanagement may not have mattered quite so intensely. But coupled with the grinding impact of sanctions, the entire system has been tipped into a potentially terminal crisis. We should expect more such climate unrest. One study from scientists at Pusan National University, South Korea, published at the end of 2025, forecasts that three-quarters of the world’s most drought-prone regions will be at risk of “day zero” by the end of the century, and a third of them will be hit before 2030. The failure of Iran’s water supplies is only the most dramatic example we have to date of how the climate crisis is threatening our most essential systems – and with them, political stability. It is unlikely to be the last. • James Meadway is the host of the Macrodose podcast.

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British diplomat expelled from Russia after being accused of being a spy

A British diplomat has been expelled from Russia after being accused of being a spy. The diplomat, who was not named, had two weeks to leave the country, the Russian foreign ministry said after it received information “regarding the affiliation of a diplomatic employee at the embassy with the British secret service”. A translation of a post on the Telegram channel of Russia’s foreign minister said the British deputy head of mission, Danae Dholakia, had been summoned to be informed the diplomat was being expelled. Saying Moscow would not “tolerate the activities of undeclared British intelligence officers in Russia”, the foreign ministry said Russia would respond decisively if the UK “escalates the situation”. “A warning was also issued that if London escalates the situation, the Russian side will give a decisive ‘mirror’ response,” it said. Russia and the US pledged to rebuild staffing levels at their embassies early last year as part of a charm offensive on Moscow by the US president, Donald Trump, which was roundly criticised in Europe. Russia and the UK have periodically expelled each other’s diplomats since the start of the war in Ukraine. Most recently, Russia expelled a British diplomat and the spouse of another in March last year, claiming the pair had been spies. In response, the UK expelled a Russian diplomat, with the then foreign secretary, David Lammy, accusing Moscow of waging a “relentless and unacceptable campaign of intimidation” against British embassy staff. He also criticised Russia’s “repeated attempts to threaten UK security”. The UK Foreign Office has been contacted for comment.

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Thursday briefing: Is your body really full of microplastics?

Good morning. Microplastics are everywhere. They have been found at the top of Mount Everest and in the deepest ocean trenches. They are in our food, our water and the air we breathe. For a while, research suggested they were inside us too. Studies reported microplastics in our cells, brains, placentas and testicles. But that picture may be wrong. In what some scientists are describing as a “bombshell”, leading researchers have cast doubt on many of the most high-profile studies claiming large amounts of microplastics in the human body. They say the findings may instead be false positives. So what do we actually know about microplastics in the human body, and how worried should we be? To find out, I spoke to Damian Carrington, the Guardian’s environment editor, who broke this extraordinary story. That’s after the headlines. Five big stories Iran | Donald Trump has said he has been assured the killing of protesters in Iran has been halted, adding that he would “watch it and see” about threatened US military action, as tensions appeared to ease on Wednesday night. Greenland | Donald Trump reiterated on Wednesday that the US needs Greenland and that Denmark cannot be relied upon to protect the island, even as he said that “something will work out” with respect to the future governance of the Danish overseas territory. UK news | Three Palestine Action-affiliated prisoners have announced the end of their hunger strike after the government decided not to award a £2bn contract to the Israeli arms company subsidiary Elbit Systems UK – with another four who had paused their protest choosing not to continue. Digital ID | The chancellor, Rachel Reeves, has insisted that she is “pretty relaxed” about what form of digital ID people use to prove their right to work in the UK, amid criticism of the government’s latest U-turn. Ukraine | Anti-corruption investigators have accused the former Ukrainian prime minister Yulia Tymoshenko of plotting to bribe MPs, including some from Volodymyr Zelenskyy’s party, in a bid to undermine him. In depth: ‘Some scientists likened microplastics study to a gold rush’ Recent research has reported worrying levels of microplastics in every part of our bodies. But what exactly are microplastics? Some are intentionally created and added to consumer products, such as the tiny beads found in face and body scrubs. Others form when larger plastic items such as disposable bottles and packaging break down. As microplastics spread across the world, fears about their health effects grew. Damian Carrington told me that many new researchers entered the field as interest surged. “Some scientists likened it to a gold rush because it’s an exciting and relevant new field that’s opened up in the last few years.” Damian, like many science and environment journalists, reported on what appeared to be groundbreaking discoveries, often published in prestigious journals. Then came a steady drip of criticism from researchers who were unconvinced. “At the start, I had one or two [contact me],” Damien says. “They’d get in touch and tell me they didn’t think this was any good. I’m not an expert or a scientist, so I can’t adjudicate anything.” But then, he began to see more and more criticism appearing in journals. “They really started to add up. It wasn’t just one or two voices any more; it was a consistent pattern of researchers questioning the validity of these high-profile findings.” *** Why are microplastic levels so hard to measure? At the heart of the problem is scale. Microplastics are tiny, so it is extremely difficult to measure their levels in the human body. Levels of nanoplastics, which are thousands of times smaller, are even harder to analyse. Damian told me that the challenges are compounded by the fact that microplastics research is still a young field. “Analytical chemists have been analysing stuff for a long time in lots of areas like pollutants in water, and therefore have well-established guidelines, which have been tested and verified,” Damien says. “But microplastics is a brand new field in the last few years. They don’t have those kinds of standard practices to lean back upon. They’re having to develop them as they go along.” He explains that there is one technique, called pyrolysis gas chromatography mass spectrometry, that has received a lot of attention. In simple terms, the method “vaporises a sample”, and the resulting molecules are then sorted and measured. The problem with this technique is that it can pick up natural substances and mistake them for plastic. The reason for this, Damian explains, is that “the fragments produced by certain plastics are actually the same molecule fragments produced by fat, for example, in the body,” leading to potential contamination or confusion over the results. Take the recent paper that found rising levels of microplastics in the brain. A separate team of researchers later challenged the findings by pointing out that fat is known to produce false positive results for polyethylene, a type of plastic, which could suggest that obesity levels could be an alternative explanation for the findings reported in the study. Damien’s reporting found seven challenged studies, while a recent analysis cited 18 that may have confused human tissue signals with those of common plastics. *** Is the science improving? When Damien went to the original researchers with the criticism, he found that most were open about the need to continue collaborating to find better methodological methods. One researcher that Damien approached for comment quoted a line from the TV show Ted Lasso: “‘[Bioanalytical assays] are never going to be perfect. The best we can do is to keep asking for help and accepting it when you can and if you keep on doing that, you’ll always be moving toward better.’” Damian says that neatly captures how science works. “It’s an iterative process.” One encouraging takeaway, he says, is that many scientists are working intensely to improve analytical tools. “We expect things to improve pretty rapidly.” But does he worry that the plastics lobby will seize on the story to downplay the harm caused by plastics? “It’s certainly an issue, but I’m no friend of the plastic lobby,” Damien said. Last August, he wrote an excoriating piece on the plastics and petrochemical industries for undermining efforts to secure a UN plastics treaty. “But as a reporter, you have to follow the evidence as best you can and that’s what I’ve done.” *** How worried should we be? There was a huge reaction to Damien’s story, particularly on social media, with some commentators suggesting it proves there isn’t anything to worry about when it comes to microplastics. Damien says it is evident that those people haven’t read his article all the way through. “What is really clear is that microplastics are everywhere in the environment. We are consuming them and there are almost certainly microplastics in our body,” he says. “And that is unlikely to be a good thing. We don’t know how much or where very clearly.” He asked every researcher he interviewed, including critics of the contested studies, whether they take precautions. All said yes. “Some of them dust their house every now and again because microplastics can form from clothing and off carpets. Some of them don’t reheat food or drinks in plastic containers because that can also produce microplastics.” The message is not that microplastics are harmless, he says. It is that the extreme levels reported in some studies are probably wrong. Several scientists also warned about unregulated and unverified treatments, including clinics offering to cleanse blood of microplastics for £10,000. “There is no evidence that justifies that kind of approach.” While research into the health effects continues, the wider case against plastic remains strong. “The plastics industry from beginning to end is environmentally problematic because they come from fossil fuels, there are emissions involved in making the plastics, lots of plastics have chemicals in them, some of which are known to be harmful to human health,” Damien says. Efforts to tackle plastic pollution at a global level stalled last August amid heavy lobbying by plastics, petrochemical companies and petrostates. “They’ll come back and have another go, but it’s looking to be a bit of an uphill battle,” says Damian. What else we’ve been reading Daniel Dylan Wray suggests it may be time to swing by your local charity shop to see if you can find a DVD of the seemingly forgotten gem that is Peter Kay’s Phoenix Nights, which launched 25 years ago and has never hit streaming. Martin Belam, newsletters team While much of the attention has focused on how serious Donald Trump is about his threat to take Greenland by force, Miranda Bryant’s on-the-ground piece does a brilliant job examining the anguish he has ignited among the territory’s people. Aamna Miss Rosen speaks to Catherine E McKinley for Huck magazine about her curation of a new exhibition of the work of photographer Seydou Keïta, who chronicled the people of Mali from his Bamako studio during the mid-20th century. Martin Iran has been shrouded in darkness after a widespread internet blackout. Adeshola Ore’s piece movingly explores the horror of being in the diaspora, desperately trying to get information about your loved ones. Aamna My newsletter team colleague Poppy Noor claims to have “three left feet and a not-very-convincing shot on goal” in her locker as she embarks on a quest to improve her amateur football skills 15 years into playing. Martin Sport Football | Robert Sánchez had a game to forget as Ben White, Viktor Gyökeres and Martín Zubimendi gave Arsenal a 3-2 lead in their Carabao Cup semi-final first leg. Football | Morocco advanced to the Africa Cup of Nations final on penalties, beating Nigeria 4-2 in the final shootout after their semi-final ended goalless after extra time. Tennis | A 29-year-old tennis coach from Sydney won the inaugural A$1m One Point Slam at the Australian Open after upstaging a field that included Jannik Sinner, Carlos Alcaraz, Iga Swiatek and Coco Gauff. The front pages “Trump still intent on ‘conquering’ Greenland, says Danes after talks,” is the splash on the Guardian on Thursday. “World on the brink,” says the Mirror. “UK military prepare for American strike on Iran,” has the i. “Fan row police chief won’t quit,” is the lead story at Times, “4 million denied the right to vote,” at the Telegraph. “Reeves’ signal on extending pubs U-turn cheers hotels,” says the FT, while the Metro runs with: “One small step...to reception.” “Shameless,” says the Mail. “Let’s honour nation’s injured 999 heroes,” is the main story at the Express. Finally the Sun with “Cheryl stalker nicked again,” and the Star: “His royal sky-ness.” Today in Focus What the Assads did next Pjotr Sauer, a Russian affairs reporter for the Guardian, talks to Annie Kelly about the exclusive Moscow neighbourhood to which the Assad family have relocated since their exile from Syria. Will Christou, a Beirut-based reporter, describes the means by which the Assads fled Syria during the uprising and the likelihood of the family facing justice. Cartoon of the day | Ben Jennings The Upside A bit of good news to remind you that the world’s not all bad As an eight-year-old, Anthony Waddle once stood ankle-deep in water netting tadpoles, which he recalls as “one of the perfect moments in my childhood”. He did it because, as he puts it, “metamorphosis is the reason kids bring tadpoles home. They want to watch that change.” Now aged 35, the award-winning conservation biologist on a mission to save the species that fascinated him as a boy from the deadly chytrid fungus, which has wiped out 90 species and is threatening more than 500 more. In Australia, Waddle has built ingenious “frog saunas” that warm endangered species enough for them to resist the fungus. He is also vaccinating frogs and even trialling gene editing to save those beyond other means of help. Australian herpetologist and conservationist Dr Jodi Rowley calls Waddle’s work “a ray of hope in amphibian conservation – we need these really innovative and cutting-edge strategies to help turn things around.” Sign up here for a weekly roundup of The Upside, sent to you every Sunday Bored at work? And finally, the Guardian’s puzzles are here to keep you entertained throughout the day. Until tomorrow. Martin Belam’s Thursday news quiz Quick crossword Cryptic crossword Wordiply

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Is it the end of the line for one of India’s most distinctive garments?

It is one India’s most ubiquitous garments, with origins in the grand Mughal courts and Rajasthani kingdoms of times past, and still widely favoured by sharply dressed grooms at wedding receptions. But this week, the distinctive high-collared bandhgala jacket – known to many as the “princely jacket” in a nod to its royal origins – found itself at the centre of a lively debate after it was denounced by the Indian railways minister as a symbol of a “colonial mindset”. In an attempt to “banish” such colonial hangovers, Ashwini Vaishnaw has declared that the bandhgala will be immediately removed as part of the formal uniform of Indian Railways staff. “We have to get rid of all colonial mindset,” Vaishnaw said. “We need to find each of them and remove them, whether it’s in our working style or dressing style.” But while the tailored jacket became part of the Indian Railways uniform in the late 19th century, during the time of the British Raj, it has been denied that the coat itself is a colonial relic. Raghavendra Rathore, an Indian menswear designer and descendent of the royal family of Jodhpur in Rajasthan who pioneered the jacket’s design centuries ago, called the garment “India’s most refined expression of royal tailoring”. “I think it’s unfair to say this jacket is not part of our own history or it’s the costume of another culture,” Rathore said. “It has developed and evolved over four centuries, going back to the Mughal courts and the Rajasthan princely states. This jacket was here before the British arrived in Calcutta and it’s gone through a very fluid evolution since then.” For Rathore, whose fashion label has focused on the traditional cultures and craft of the bandhgala, it remains a distinctively Indian garment that encompasses layers of history. The now-ubiquitous closed neckline, the fitted and tailored torso and shaped shoulders of the jacket first emerged in the courts of Mughal emperor Akbar in the 16th century. As the design evolved into a waist-length fitted jacket, it was then adopted in the courts of the Rajput warrior rulers and maharajas of Jodhpur, in what is now Rajasthan state, where it underwent further transformation and adaptation. The high neck was seen as particularly favourable for the chilly conditions of north India during the winter. By the 19th century, the jacket had been further modified by the Jodhpur royal family to make it suitable as an outfit for riding horses and playing polo, to be matched with tight breeches now known more commonly as jodhpurs. It was as a polo uniform that the bandhgala jacket became popularised in the west by the early 20th century. Far from being a western imposition, the adoption of the bandhgala jacket by Indian Railways in the late 19th century saw it replace more European-style frocks and tunics. Rathore acknowledged there was some colonial influence on the evolution of the jacket during the time of the Raj. Elements were copied from British military uniform jackets, such as certain trims and tailoring, and other paraphernalia that were added to the designs. But “the jacket itself always remained Indian”, he emphasised. The bandhgala is not the only relic to face the ire of the Hindu nationalist government of prime minister Narendra Modi, as it has pledged to free India from the legacy of more than 100 years of Britain’s cruel and exploitative colonial rule, which only ended in 1947. “The goal of a developed India is to remove any trace of the colonial mindset,” Modi said last year. After Indian independence, the bandhgala was reclaimed as a nationalistic garment, and kept on as a formal part of the railways uniform. While Rathore conceded it was not always the most practical item for those working on the railways – particularly in the high summer temperatures – he questioned what might be brought in to replace it. “There is much curiosity over what they will choose,” he said. “The hope is it’s not just an ordinary western suit.”

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Ugandans to vote in election expected to extend Museveni’s four-decade rule

Ugandans are preparing to vote in an election that is expected to result in Yoweri Museveni extending his nearly four-decade grip on power in the east African country, after a campaign beset by violence. Security forces have frequently clamped down on supporters of Museveni’s main opponent, Bobi Wine, by teargassing and shooting bullets at events and detaining people. Authorities have also arrested civil society members and suspended rights groups. On Tuesday, they shut down internet access and limited mobile phone services countrywide. The actions have prompted fears of unrest around the polls, similar to the violence that followed the general election in Tanzania in October when hundreds of people were killed. Observers say the government’s reaction shows the ruling party, the National Resistance Movement (NRM), is facing its biggest test yet, and the election risks further dividing Uganda. Museveni is seeking his seventh term, and most Ugandans have not lived under another president. Younger people, in particular, have connected with Wine, a 43-year-old singer turned politician, and say they are concerned about their futures. Museveni became Uganda’s ninth president in 1986 after leading rebels in a five-year civil war. He led the country to economic growth and democratic change after years of political decay by autocratic governments. But hopes of enduring change dwindled amid accusations of corruption, authoritarianism, repression and curtailment of judicial independence. Critics have also condemned his extended stay in office, achieved by using tactics to lengthen his term indefinitely including by twice changing the constitution. “[Wine’s] challenge has brought to the surface the character of the regime in terms of tolerating political alternatives or dissent,” said the political historian Mwambutsya Ndebesa. “The political class is getting more and more politically polarised. And that threatens the stability of the country because Uganda is prone to political instability.” In the run-up to the election, which will also feature parliamentary votes, police and the military have frequently broken up Wine’s campaign events using teargas and gunshots and by bludgeoning his supporters. At least one person has been killed and hundreds have been arrested. In December, police detained Sarah Bireete, a rights activist and government critic who had raised concerns about discrepancies in the registry of voters. On Tuesday, the government ordered several rights groups that have denounced violations during the campaign period to stop their work. A report by the UN human rights office last week accused Ugandan authorities of using laws enacted or amended since 2021 to entrench repression and restrict rights ahead of the election, which it said would take place in an environment marked by widespread repression and intimidation. The government has said the actions of the security forces are in response to what it termed lawless conduct by opposition supporters. In a televised address on New Year’s Eve, Museveni advised security forces to use more teargas to break up the crowds of “the criminal opposition”. “Everything is done to frustrate and annoy,” said the human rights lawyer Eron Kiiza at a briefing on the election last week, referring to disruptions of opposition events by security agencies. Kiiza was allegedly tortured and detained without trial last year while representing the jailed opposition politician Kizza Besigye, who has been in prison for 14 months over what critics say are politically motivated charges, and Besigye’s aide Hajj Obeid Lutale. Museveni, 81, often credits NRM with bringing peace and development to Uganda. Under the slogan “protecting the gains”, he is promising wealth and job creation and to grow the economy partly through value addition for agricultural exports and oil production, which is expected to start this year. Festus Kezire, an NRM supporter in Serere district in eastern Uganda, said Museveni’s introduction of free primary and secondary education was one of the reasons he would vote for him. He said: “He has restored peace and stability in Uganda and this has helped end many years of civil strife.” Museveni is campaigning against seven opposition candidates, the main challenger being Wine, whose real name is Robert Kyagulanyi, of the National Unity Platform (NUP). The two faced off in the last election in 2021, with Museveni winning with 58.38% of the vote and Wine garnering 35.08%. Wine’s manifesto promises “a complete reset of Uganda”, including by upholding human rights and ending corruption. Florence Naluyiba, an NUP supporter in Wakiso district in central Uganda, said she would vote for Wine because “Uganda needs change”. “Our dream is to have president who will prioritise social service delivery. Bobi Wine has taken the risk to stand up for Ugandans at the expense of his freedom.” Ndebesa, the historian, said the incumbent’s stranglehold on state power, resources and infrastructure gave him organisational advantages over Wine. “The winning [of Museveni] in Uganda is almost a given,” he said. However, observers are keen to see what the election will say about Museveni’s eventual succession. He has long been thought to be grooming his son, Gen Muhoozi Kainerugaba, as his successor, although he has denied this. Across Uganda, 21.6 million people have registered to vote. Additional reporting by Samuel Okiror